T-Bar Drop Down Bin Transmission Tunnel Glove Box
T-Bar - Removal
Removal of the transmission tunnel is a 4 or 5 part process depending on whether you have a windstop or not. The 5 parts are: 1.Windstop 2.T-Bar 3.Drop down bin 4.Footwell illumination panels 5.Transmission tunnel. Begin by removing your windstop (if you have one). There are quite a number of windstops available for the F/TF and the one Scarlet is fitted with is one of only 7 made in this finish, so your removal instructions are likely to be different to mine. Scarlet has a Mike Satur FX windstop in polished billet aluminium, but by far the most common windstop is the standard MG mesh one and this is attached with a pair of square mounting blocks on the top of the T-Bar. In my case it was just a matter of undoing the pair of thumbscrews and then unscrewing the concealed mounting bar fixings. This picture shows the mounting bar and also the fixing bolts. Again, only of interest if you have a Mike Satur FX billet aluminium windstop or are intrigued by the design. Basically there is a mounting bar that attaches to the aluminium angle below the T-Bar. This then has a pair of threaded holes to take the thumbscrews. In my opinion, this is a superb bit of design making initial fitting extremely easy (no need to remove the T-Bar) and subsequent temporary removal even easier still (just undo the thumbscrews). Nice one Mike. OK, windstop removed, it's time to move on to the T-Bar. Begin by removing the three tonneau cover fixings across the top with a Philips head screwdriver. Now, if you have a Mk1 F then you will have three press studs (as shown in the picture), if you have a later model MGF or a TF then you are likely to have a single press stud in the middle and a larger mushroom shaped stud each end. These are removed in the same way as the press studs. Lastly, if you have a Mike Satur half tonneau cover then there is a possibility you will have something a little different.
Scarlet has a Mike Satur tonneau cover which is secured with Tannex clips. These are a secure method of attaching the cover and have only one drawback - they are fiddly to remove! To undo the ones on Scarlet I needed an 8mm spanner, an 8mm socket on a short extension piece and a lot of patience! Apart from the top fixings, the T-Bar is clipped into place with 3 pairs of trim clips, a pair at each end and a pair in the middle. These are released with a short, sharp tug of the T-Bar towards the dash (you will need to pull both seats forwards to give you room). It is likely that the male part of the trim clip will stay in the female part making later re-fitting of the T-Bar imposable, use a pair of pliers and carefully separate the two, you can now slide the male part back onto it's button fixing on the T-Bar. The picture shows a pair at the end and the next picture....... ...shows the pair of trim clips in the middle. It also shows the volumetric alarm sensor attached to the top of the drop down bin - we shall come to this in a moment. In the meantime, to get the T-Bar out of the way, extend the seatbelts and hook the T-Bar over the seats.
To remove the seat belt escutcheons it really is as simple as it looks, unscrew the screws with a Philips head screwdriver. On early Fs these screws locate into a metal plate behind the T-Bar, as you undo the screws it may drop out, be ready to catch it. As mentioned, this picture shows the metal plate behind the seatbelt escutcheons. I popped the escutcheon out of the T-Bar and the next step is to thread the belt out of the it With the escutcheons removed, you can now thread the end of the belts through the T-Bar, the T-bar is now free of the car and can be removed.

Drop Down Bin - Removal

The next step is to remove the drop down bin. I removed the lid in the 'Dash (part 1)' gallery and now I am going to remove the main bin itself. With the T-Bar removed you have access to the pair of fixing screws and the volumetric alarm sensor. Note there are 4 screws here, to remove the drop down bin you only need to undo the lower two with a Philips head screwdriver as shown in the picture. Next you need to unclip the multiplug from the sensor. I have seen 2 designs for this plug and Scarlet has the earlier blue one. There is a white plug too (I have seen one on a Japanese import - the owner was upgrading the alarm system to include the volumetric sensor). The white plug is a different shape to the blue one so (obviously) it is important, if you are adding this item to an imported car that the plug and sensor are the same shape. OK, easy part last. With the top screws removed and the volumetric sensor unplugged, you can just lift the drop down bin free of the car. There is also a surprise waiting for you in the rear carpet behind this item, more on this later...

Transmission Tunnel - Removal

With both seats pulled forwards, undo the screw each side of the transmission tunnel shown in the picture. Move both the seats back and find the triangular panels in the foot well with the lights in them. To get access to the remaining transmission tunnel screws you need to remove these panels which is an easy job comprising a pair of screws per panel and some wiring to unclip. Begin by removing the lower screw as shown in the picture. Again using the Philips head screwdriver, remove the other screw by the light. The panel is now loose and can be worked free (it has tabs that slide behind the other panels).
This picture shows the back of the foot well illumination panel, disconnect the wiring to remove the panel completely. It is worth noting the yellow wire in the top of the picture. The image shows the passenger foot well panel and the yellow wire is the receiving aerial for the alarm blipper. In a normal F this is coiled up, but a better reception (and therefore an increased range) can be had by unwinding this wire and taping it as high as possible in a straight line. I have plans for this wire in the rebuild. The transmission tunnel itself is only secured with 6 screws, 2 of which have already been removed behind the seats. The remaining 4 screws are behind the foot well illumination panels and the top one is shown in the picture. Remove with the Philips head screwdriver. This picture shows the bottom screw for the transmission tunnel, remove and then repeat the previous steps for the driver's side foot well. The transmission tunnel is now free from the car and can be removed.
Nearly there now, reach into the cubby box opening and thread the volumetric alarm sensor cable back through the small opening in the back of the transmission tunnel thus. OK, to recap, you should have removed the handbrake gaiter and handle, cubby box and drop down bin lids and the instrument fascia in addition to the previous instructions (these other items are covered in the 'Dash (part 1)' gallery). You are now in a position to remove the tunnel. Staying at the rear of the tunnel, pull it rearwards and upwards until it 'jambs' on the handbrake handle (now you know why it is so high when engaged!) You should now be able to work the front of the tunnel past the dash and then lift the entire tunnel out of the car. This picture shows the car with the tunnel removed. Note the brass-like gear lever selector mechanism, this is one of Mike Satur's SSK (Slick Shift Kits) and is something I wouldn't hesitate to recommend to anyone. Also, note the yellow wiring next to it, with the exception of the blipper aerial wire all the yellow wiring I have found in the F is related to the Supplementary Restraint System (SRS - air bags and seatbelt pre-tensioner). It is vitally important that before disconnecting ANY of this wiring the battery is disconnected and then left for a good 10 minutes as any residual current in the system can cause the SRS components to fire when tampered with. Bearing in mind that these items use explosives it is not a good idea to meddle with them unduly!

Glove Box - Removal

The other job I carried out was to remove the glove box. This is a very simple job involving the removal of 4 screws. Begin by opening the glove box door and locating the screw each side as shown in the picture. Remove with the Philips head screwdriver, then I have found it easier to close the door ready for the next step. Underneath the glove box are a further pair of screws. Note these are in a 'C' shaped bracket so it is not necessary to remove them, only loosen. With the last pair of screws loosened you should be able to slide the entire box forwards out of the dash. On top of the glove box is the wiring to the light. Disconnect both sets of wires from the bulb and switch on the door catch. The glove box is now free and can be removed from the car.