and hood care
- Paul Lathwell at
DotComoff shares his views on car care
- he also explains
the general problems with the hood
- Paul discusses the
pro's and con's of hard top ownership
here, including how to fitment.
- Dieter has this
page on hood reproofing.
Satur's windscreen wiper linkage
- Broon shows
how to install it here.
- Dieter has
some pictures here.
- Dieter shows
how to repair the ball joint here.
- There is an
improved wiper mechanism repair kit available, the part number is
DKT000010, and consists of the link bars ball joints, some rubber shims
and instructions. These kits are selling for around £16 from Xpart
The kit is mentioned in the above link.
- Hepburn on the
MG-Rover.org forum has
this excellent tip for a repair
to the driver side wiper linkage -
the wipers at the 1 o'clock position to ensure best access to wiper
mechanism under bonnet. Pull apart the ball joint (if not already
apart). Tip: set wipers going and turn off ignition to obtain correct
off the "rivet like" lip securing the top half of the ball joint to the
mechanism plate and remove it. A small Dremmel type tool works well for
this, albeit slowly.
a 5mm hole through the top half of the ball joint, in such a way you
can put an M4 bolt through it and the mechanism plate for re-attachment.
as above to the bottom half of the ball joint, being careful to
maintain the same or similar angle. This part will have to be done in
a 40 or 50mm M4 bolt, place a large (20mm) M4 washer on it and feed the
bolt upwards through the bottom half of the ball joint.
the upper half of the ball joint back into place and push the above
bolt through it and the wiper mechanism plate. Tip: Locate the upper
half of the ball joint back into the wiper mechanism plate before
inserting the bolt through it.
another 20mm M4 washer on the bolt, followed by an M4 nut. Tighten
quite firmly. This should result in the ball joint and wiper mechanism
plate being "sandwiched" by the washers.
wipers (with water on screen) and ensure there is no "judder" on the
driver side wiper. If there is then tighten the "sandwich" further and
test again. Repeat until any "judder" is gone.
satisfied with your repair apply a "nylon" locking nut on top of the
1st nut and tighten securely. Tip: M4 nylon nuts can be obtained from
vacuum away the grinding dust from the area below the wiper mechanism
to ensure it does not leave "rust" stains after a few days.
final tip - keep a spare nut & bolt "sandwich" in the car
together with the tools to fit it, just in case the fitted one breaks.
That way you can always fit it in situ in the event of it breaking
again. I've not needed to yet, but best be prepared eh?
- Another tip from
Hepburn obtained from a nice AA man. That is to trap a layer of rubber
glove (the type used by mechanics) between the ball joint halves. It
won't last long but may be enough to get you home...
one more solution from Dr
Dave/Disco Dave over on the MG-Rover forum.
- fancy a single
wiper arm?, Rob Bell has had a conversion done, read
all about it on the F Register
- Dieter has this
page on wind stops, including
dimensions for the OE MGR wind stop posts.
- Rob Bell did the
infamous 'blue wig' test for wind stops on his web site here.
- Adrianvvc from the
MGF Register forums gives this tip for fitting the MGR windstop without
using a template to an MG F
the plastic rear finishing bulkhead only 3 screws and release from
remove metal strip 4 screws, keep rear 2 only.
metal strip with 3 screws temporary under bulkhead to locate position
of front 2 holes, drill a pilot hole through these and bulkhead.
metal strip and bulkhead holes will line up for the 2 windstop brackets
replace and two holes will line
- Hainsie from SWMGF
has put together this
great MS Word document (880kb)
showing how to replace the mesh in the MG OE wind stop. The thread
covering this on SWMGF's forum is
here (you need to be a SWMGF
member to view the thread)
- Dieter has a page
on a broken door window bracket here.
- the parts for the
door window regulator are shown on Dieters EPC
- Tony Thompson
explains how to adjust the door glass in his web site here.
- Dieter shows how
to adjust the door glass and cheater here.
- Steve gives this
tip for scratches on the windscreen -
"To remove the usual arc caused
by a defective wiper blade, use jewellers rouge. This is a very fine
powder that should be mixed with a liquid glass polish to make a paste,
apply using plenty of elbow grease !. You should finish up with little
or no sign of the scratch (depending on how deep it was) and without
any windscreen distortion."
- Here's a great tip
from Jerry 'MGtfnut' Herbert on how to make the cheater fit......
"The cheater is held on by 2
screws at the top against the door frame, and an adjustment at the
bottom of the window runner "A". I took the whole lot out because there
was 2/3 mm of movement of the cheater, when the window runner was
fixed. I found that the cheater bit is held onto the runner "U" shaped
channel with 2 small machine screws. These had come loose, and the
detents locating it had become distorted. With a bit of careful
squeezing in a vice, I managed to close up the slack in the metal
runner making the detent positive, and replaced the machine screws
I then carefully bent the top edge of the door frame, with protective
strips of metal and "Mole" grips, inwards slightly.
When it was all replaced the cheater fitted perfectly, so much so that
I can take the plastic tube dodge out!!"
- Garvin made these
covers to fit over the slot left
in the cheater after he'd fitted power mirrors.
- David on The
T-Bar.com has excelled himself by producing
this in-depth how to on
replacing the cheater
level brake light
- BPR160 from the
MG-Rover.org forum explains how to replace a bulb in the F's high level
brake light - "Undo the 2
screws which hold the HLBL in and remove the connector. Undo the 5
Phillips screws and gently pull the two halves apart. Bulbs are 286's."
- Nice page here
from Dieter showing the
procedure for stripping a wing mirror.
- and another
page from Dieter for the repair
of the wing mirror casing.
- Rob Bell has
this page on modifying the rear
side air intake ducts.
- Again from Rob
this page covers the TF 200 HPD
hybrid, and the aerodynamics that were added to it.